TRIP SUMMARY: ALOR 2025

about ALOR

Alor sits at the eastern edge of the Indonesian archipelago, tucked within the Lesser Sunda Islands between Flores and Timor. Remote, rugged, and sparsely populated, this quiet corner of Indonesia feels a world away from the usual tourist trail. Among divers, however, Alor has earned a reputation for its dramatic underwater topography, nutrient-rich currents, and great biodiversity. It is also a great place for spotting diverse macro wildlife.

Getting there is part of the adventure. We flew from Kuala Lumpur to Jakarta before connecting onward to Kupang, and finally a short domestic hop brought us to Kalabahi. It is a longer journey compared to many Southeast Asian dive destinations, but the increasing sense of remoteness makes the arrival all the more rewarding.

We visited in October 2025 and were greeted with mostly sunny skies, calm seas, and only the occasional brief tropical shower. Underwater conditions were just as welcoming, with water temperatures hovering at a comfy 28-29°C.

what we loved about alor

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PRISTINE REEFS & LAID BACK DIVING

EASY DIVING LOGISTICS

UNIQUE CULTURAL EXPERIENCE

MEETING MAWARDI THE DUGONG

BONUS EXPERIENCE: PYGMY BLUE WHALE

VERDICT: WOULD WE VISIT AGAIN?

pristine reefs & LAID BACK diving

Diving in Alor is defined by dramatic wall drop-offs and expansive reef slopes blanketed in healthy corals, with visibility often exceeding 20 metres. While pelagic encounters are uncommon, apart from the occasional lucky sighting of hammerhead sharks, the sheer biomass of reef life makes every dive feel vibrant and alive. We consistently encountered banded sea kraits, bumphead parrotfish, napoleon wrasse, and whitetip reef sharks. We did not see any hammerheads on this trip, though previous visits rewarded us with groups of three to five.

Currents are generally mild, except at Mangrove during a falling tide and at Munaseli, where they can be considerably stronger. At Mangrove, we enjoyed an exhilarating drift in the fast-moving water. At Munaseli, we found a strategic position along the reef edge and hooked in to watch eagle rays and whitetip reef sharks cruise effortlessly in the current.

Read on for brief highlights of some of the more notable dive sites:

CHECK DIVE at bama wall

Our very first dive in Alor felt like a warm welcome and a perfect preview of what awaited us for the rest of the week. The wall at Bama Reef began with a sharp drop-off, where shifting light and shadows created a striking, dramatic seascape. Along the wall, we encountered several large bumphead parrotfish, a hunting shoal of bluefin trevallies, and a flurry of reef fish feasting on the eggs of sergeant major fish. Then we finished our dive at the top of shallow slope where the incredible coral cover is home to countless tiny fish that felt like a continues explosion of fireworks to our eyes.

A feeding frenzy: butterflyfish and wrasse feasting on sergeant major fish eggs.

A dramatic wall dive full of nooks and crannies to exlore.

A traditional fishing trap - a common sight at many dive sites here.

The top of the reef was covered with millions of tiny fish!

bakalang JETTY

This was an easy and enjoyable afternoon dive. We weaved in and out of the tall pillars that were covered with a diverse and colourful array of soft and hard corals and sponges. On the shallow seafloor, we saw many different types of nudibranch, and even a shoal of razor fish. The slanting afternoon sun dancing with the shadows of the pillars created a very ethereal, dreamlike scene.

cathedral

The highlight of Cathedral is its striking underwater rock formation, which forms a short and atmospheric swim-through.

The interior of the cave-like structure is coated in coral growth, and gazing out through the bright opening feels like peering through the rose windows of a grand cathedral, an image that fittingly inspired the site’s name.

MUNASELI

One of Alor’s most renowned dive sites, Munaseli is famed for encounters with large pelagics such as hammerhead sharks and even thresher sharks. On our two previous trips, we were fortunate to glimpse hammerheads cruising along the reef edge. We did not share the same luck this time, but it was still thrilling to hook onto the reef and watch eagle rays and whitetip reef sharks hover and cruise effortlessly in the current.

As we drifted toward the shallow plateau to end the dive, we were treated to a magical finale: two mobula rays locked in an elegant courtship dance.

MANGROVE

Despite its name, Mangrove is not an actual mangrove dive site, but is named after the nearby coastal forest. What it does offer is a colourful reef best explored in the most exhilarating way possible, drifting with the ripping currents that define the site during a falling tide. We sped over pristine coral gardens like astronauts in flight, while reef fish darted energetically around us as if equally thrilled by the rush.

The current eventually intensified beyond what was comfortable for safe group diving, so we ended the dive slightly earlier to avoid separation. Back at the surface, we laughed as we replayed the chaos, some of us had been comically cartwheeling and tumbling while trying to stay properly positioned in the powerful flow. This dive was a great way to break up the rhythm of the usual laidback dives.

easy diving logistics

Alor Tanapi Dive Resort is strategically located along the central coastline of Alor, placing many of the region’s best dive sites within short boat rides in multiple directions. This central positioning reduces travel time each day and allows flexible dive planning based on tides and currents, so logistics were smooth and efficient.

With capacity for only 16 guests, each chalet is tucked cosily among trees along a gentle hillside, creating a peaceful and exclusive atmosphere. The chalets are spacious, air-conditioned, and tastefully furnished, featuring beautiful semi-outdoor showers and generous private decks that were perfect for hanging our wetsuits so they stayed dry and ready for the next day.

Getting around the resort is effortless. The restaurant sits a short walk uphill along a path lined with lush foliage, while the dive centre is just a brief stroll downhill toward a small beach where the boats are moored. Meals are highly customisable and span a variety of cuisines, all exquisitely prepared. As the day winds down, it is easy to settle in with a drink or cocktail in hand and enjoy a relaxed sunset by the sea. Our favourite pastime was to scan the horizon for whales and dolphins!

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unique cultural experience

TAKPALA VILLAGE

A visit to Takpala Village offered a meaningful glimpse into the living heritage of Alor. Located about an hour’s drive from Alor Tanapi Dive Resort, the village is home to the indigenous Abui tribe, who continue to preserve their traditional way of life through subsistence farming, handicrafts, and communal living. The village’s distinctive architecture stands out immediately, with clusters of traditional thatched-roof houses built on stilts and arranged around stone gathering spaces that serve as the heart of community activities.

Upon our arrival, we were warmly welcomed by a reception party who guided us into the village grounds. The villagers were dressed in striking traditional attire of black and red, and we were treated to an enchanting dance performance while being served local refreshments and coffee. Before long, we were invited to join the celebration, and the shared laughter and movement dissolved any sense of distance between us and our hosts. The connection we felt with the community was heartfelt and remains one of the most memorable moments of our trip.

After the performance, we were invited to step inside several traditional homes to better understand their living spaces, followed by a stroll through a small handicraft market specially arranged for our visit, where beautifully handmade textiles and crafts showcased the tribe’s artistic heritage.

Ternate Weaving Village

A visit to Ternate Weaving Village offered another enriching cultural encounter during our stay in Alor. just a short boat ride across the channel from our resort to the opposite island of Ternate, the village is home to a close-knit community that continues to practise traditional textile weaving as part of daily life. Natural materials are still widely used, with cotton fibres spun into thread by hand and dyed using pigments derived from plants, roots, bark, and minerals.

We were guided on foot through the village, passing houses painted in bright cheerful colours and decorated with expressive drawings. The murals often depicted scenes of village life, nature, animals, and geometric motifs.

Our walk led us into a house where every stage of the textile-making process had been thoughtfully laid out for us. We observed how raw fibres were spun into thread, carefully dyed, and then woven by hand on traditional looms into the village’s signature textiles. The meticulous craftsmanship behind each piece gave us a deeper appreciation for the time and skill involved.

As we browsed the finished fabrics, we had the opportunity to support the community by purchasing some of their beautiful handmade textiles. Throughout the visit, we were warmly hosted with freshly fried banana fritters, cups of local coffee, and stories.

meeting mawardi the dugong

MawardI the Dugong is something of a gentle celebrity in Alor. For years, local fishermen and coastal communities have shared stories of a remarkably friendly dugong that frequents the seagrass meadows near Mali. Named Mawardi by residents, he has become both a symbol of the region’s healthy marine ecosystem and a beloved figure in local folklore, known for his curious and unusually sociable behaviour around boats.

Our encounter began with a scenic drive to Mali Beach, where we boarded a narrow wooden boat that carried us into calm, shallow waters carpeted with seagrass meadows below. Entering the water was not permitted due to Mawardi’s overly friendly nature, which could unintentionally put both visitors and the animal at risk.

About ten minutes into our search, we spotted him and our first encounter left us speechless. Mawardi was clutching a juvenile green sea turtle tightly between his front flippers. As our boat drifted closer, he swam right up and lifted the turtle above the surface as if presenting it as a friendly offering. Our guide gently lifted the turtle aboard, both in acceptance and to spare it from becoming Mawardi’s plaything again.

With the turtle safely kept on the boat to be released farther away later, we spent the next hour observing Mawardi’s playful antics. He repeatedly surfaced belly-up beside the boat as if asking for belly rubs, then slipped beneath the surface only to reappear some distance away. We followed him in this light-hearted game of hide-and-seek until it was finally time to bid farewell. On the way back, we released the turtle closer to shore.

Bonus encounter: pygmy blue whale

The pygmy blue whale is a smaller, rarer subspecies of the blue whale, yet still one of the largest animals on Earth. Unlike Antarctic blue whales, pygmy blues inhabit warmer tropical and subtropical waters. The waters around Alor form part of their migratory route, making the region a natural corridor for these giants. Despite this, sightings are rare and fleeting, adding to their mystique for divers and marine enthusiasts Whales also hold cultural significance in the region. Nearby communities, particularly on Lembata Island, have a centuries-old tradition of seasonal whale hunting, rooted in subsistence living and ritual heritage.

Our sighting came completely by surprise. Shortly after a dive, we spotted a spout near our boat. Our guide immediately shouted that it was a blue whale, sending waves of excitement through everyone on board. Without a drone, we missed the chance for a full view of this massive creature up close. We attempted several respectful entries into the water whenever the whales surfaced for air. In total, we counted three individuals. Despite multiple tries to see them underwater, we managed only a single fleeting glimpse—a brief but unforgettable encounter with one of the ocean’s most magnificent migratory giants.

VERDICT: WOULD WE VISIT AGAIN?

Absolutely. Alor offers a rare combination of remoteness, natural beauty, and cultural richness that makes it an ideal destination for a relaxed, immersive getaway. For those seeking a slower pace, away from the crowds, yet filled with meaningful experiences both above and below the water, Alor delivers effortlessly. Its quiet beaches, exclusive resort chalets, rich marine biodiversity, and vibrant local culture come together to create a trip that is both rejuvenating and unforgettable. It remains, without question, one of our favorite destinations for a truly relaxed and rewarding escape.